Below you'll find several topics that will help you prepare for the arrival of your puppy.
Reading material for before you bring your puppy home.
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Food for your puppy...
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Your puppy is eating Life's Abundance small & medium breed puppy food.
He/she will come home with a food baggie with about a week's worth of food. It is best to keep your puppy on this same premium puppy food for the first few months to avoid stress and tummy upsets. You can order by clicking the picture or the button below. We do NOT recommend feeding Grain Free - unless your dog develops allergies to the grains in the foods you're feeding. **Consult your veterinarian if you suspect food allergies. This is an excellent premium puppy food that we recommend feeding your puppy until at least a year old. At that point we switch our own puppies to their All Stages formula. If you do decide to change foods please make sure to do so very slowly. Puppies do not have fully developed gastrointestinal systems that do well with food changes and experience gas, bloating, and severe diarrhea easily. |
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Keeping dog Food Fresh
Pet food studies have shown that one week after a bag of kibble has been opened it begins to show signs of deterioration. At the 4 week mark the rancidity levels can be toxic. This is commonly why your dog will refuse to eat the food from a bag you've had open for an extended period of time. They can smell the rancidity and would rather be hungry than eat it.
What will help dog food stay fresh longer?
What will help dog food stay fresh longer?
- Buying the smallest bags possible
- Rolling down the top of the bag
- Keep food in dark, airtight, (non-plastic) containers
- Keep a larger bag, or open bag, in a deep freezer if possible - only remove enough for a few days
- Containers should be stainless steel and washed with hot soapy water, or even better - sanitized in the dishwasher between batches. Never use plastic containers or bins to store food as they can harbor the rancid oils in the pores of the plastic, even after being washed.
Crate Training...
Our dogs love their crates and choose to sleep in them even when they don't have to... notice the door is open. ;)
Your dog's crate should become their personal den where they find peace and solitude. This will only happen if you introduce it the right way—positively. In the end, it will provide comfort for your dog, and peace of mind for you. Just knowing your family member is safe, secure, and not shredding your house or getting into trouble while you're gone is worth the effort.
Recently there has been a stigma against crating your dog. Some of the reasons cited are:
We genuinely hope that you recognize the incredible responsibility you have as a dog-owner to introduce and use a crate in a positive way with your dog. We do not advocate using a crate for 'punishment'.
- that it is unnatural and inhumane
- that it is a punishment
- that dogs don't like to be away from their people
We genuinely hope that you recognize the incredible responsibility you have as a dog-owner to introduce and use a crate in a positive way with your dog. We do not advocate using a crate for 'punishment'.
BENEFITS OF CRATING
There are several benefits to crate training. Some of the benefits include (and are not limited to):
There are several benefits to crate training. Some of the benefits include (and are not limited to):
- House-training. Dogs don't like to soil their dens. You can use this to train them when/where to go.
- Creating boundaries. The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other house rules. This will reduce their ability to participate in destructive or nuisance behaviors.
- Transportation. Crates are a safe way to bring your dog with you to places like the veterinarian and groomer.
- Security. Dogs love a space they can call their own. A place to retreat to, be fed or treated, and rest.
- Grooming. If you take your Shih Tzu puppy to a groomer chances are they will use a crate to dry your dog, and/or keep them contained before and after they're finished grooming. Your dog will have less stress if he/she is used to using a crate.
SELECTING A CRATE
There are several types of crates available (plastic, fabric, metal), there are benefits for each kind. So, as you select one that fits your needs or that you like - you can be successful with any type of crate. At Shurbeez we use both metal wire and plastic crates for the simple reasons that they are easy to clean. We do also train our puppies to travel in a soft sided crate as well.
We recommend you get a crate that will fit your puppy when it's an adult. The rule of thumb is to add approximately 4 inches to the overall length and height of your grown dog to get the length and height of the crate. We generally recommend an 18x24 crate, this is the size we use for our adults.
If the crate is initially too big for your puppy, get a crate divider or make one of your own *(just make sure it is safe and won't hurt your pup). This will prevent your dog from using one side as a bathroom and retreating to the other. You can move the divider as the puppy grows. Typically I give my potty training puppies less than half of the crate space when they begin sleeping in their adult sized crate. It is the perfect size for them to stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably.
There are several types of crates available (plastic, fabric, metal), there are benefits for each kind. So, as you select one that fits your needs or that you like - you can be successful with any type of crate. At Shurbeez we use both metal wire and plastic crates for the simple reasons that they are easy to clean. We do also train our puppies to travel in a soft sided crate as well.
We recommend you get a crate that will fit your puppy when it's an adult. The rule of thumb is to add approximately 4 inches to the overall length and height of your grown dog to get the length and height of the crate. We generally recommend an 18x24 crate, this is the size we use for our adults.
If the crate is initially too big for your puppy, get a crate divider or make one of your own *(just make sure it is safe and won't hurt your pup). This will prevent your dog from using one side as a bathroom and retreating to the other. You can move the divider as the puppy grows. Typically I give my potty training puppies less than half of the crate space when they begin sleeping in their adult sized crate. It is the perfect size for them to stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably.
THE CRATE TRAINING PROCESS
We introduce crates to our Shih Tzu puppies at an early age - usually around the age of 3 weeks. It is introduced without a door and puppies are given treats in the crate - they think it a great place and can often be found entering on their own, dragging a favorite toy in there, and napping in there as well. Eventually we add the door back on and place puppies in the crate alone with a treat to learn that it is a great place to be. In your home, if you choose to use a crate or ever want to use one for taking a dog in the car, to the vet, or plan to have your dog groomed it is important to continue to make the crate a wonderful place to be. It is important to incorporate the crate training process early, while the puppy is still developing habits and learning your house rules. Full crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep a few things in mind while crate training:
We introduce crates to our Shih Tzu puppies at an early age - usually around the age of 3 weeks. It is introduced without a door and puppies are given treats in the crate - they think it a great place and can often be found entering on their own, dragging a favorite toy in there, and napping in there as well. Eventually we add the door back on and place puppies in the crate alone with a treat to learn that it is a great place to be. In your home, if you choose to use a crate or ever want to use one for taking a dog in the car, to the vet, or plan to have your dog groomed it is important to continue to make the crate a wonderful place to be. It is important to incorporate the crate training process early, while the puppy is still developing habits and learning your house rules. Full crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep a few things in mind while crate training:
- The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
- Never use the crate as a punishment.
- Training should take place in a series of small steps. Please take your time and don't go too fast, for your sake and the puppy's.
STEP 1: INTRODUCE THE CRATE SLOWLY
(At this point, your pup has not had any negative crate experiences while at our home- so hopefully the first steps should be easy.)
First things first, make sure you place the crate in the center of the house, right next to you, or where the family spends a lot of time. (It is ok to move the crate from room to room with you too.) That way your puppy won't feel like he is being isolated or banished. I find that it's helpful to put toys or a soft blanket, and a yummy chew treat - these should be things they only get inside the crate.
This is when patience comes in. Don't force your puppy into the crate. Some puppies will naturally be curious and explore the crate right away. If this is not the case for you, I would recommend placing a toy or treat near the crate, depending on whichever your puppy prefers over the other. Gradually place treats closer to the crate, right at the entrance, and finally inside the crate. Your puppy may be fine and walk right into the crate and need no coaxing.
At no point during this step should you force the puppy inside the crate or close the crate door. This step may take a few minutes or possibly as long as several days. Be patient with your puppy as he or she learns! They can feel your frustration and interpret the feeling as the crate being an unsafe place for them...
STEP 2: FEED YOUR DOG IN THE CRATE
After your dog is familiar with his crate, place his/her food bowl near the crate. That way, your dog will begin to associate the crate with pleasant experiences. Depending on how fast your dog readily enters the crate at this point, you can start putting the bowl in the crate itself or scatter some food inside. Because animals don't want to go potty where they eat or sleep, this step also teaches them to hold it. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the food bowl as close as the dog is willing to go, gradually decreasing the distance with each meal.
Once your dog is comfortable with the crate, you can close the door while your dog is eating so he/she gets used to it. However, especially the first time, make sure that you open the door again as soon as he's finished. Gradually increase the length of time after the meal is finished before you open the door again, up to 10 minutes. If done right, your dog shouldn't whine because he/she is used to the crate by now.
However, if your puppy starts to whine to be let out, it's probably because you've increase the time too much. It is better to let him out when he's still comfortable. Don't wait until he realizes he wants to be let out and makes a fuss. Remember, it's important to associate the crate with happy feelings. If your puppy does whine, don't let him out until he stops or you risk unwillingly teaching him to whine to get what he wants. (give him a treat through the crate door or another opening until he/she is quiet an can then be let out without whining to do so.
STEP 3: LENGTHEN THE CRATING PERIODS
Because the long-term goal of crating training is for your dog to find peace and security in the crate, you'll need to get your dog used to the crate while you're gone. At this point, your dog has experienced the crate positively with family close by. Now you need to begin withdrawing from the room or out of sight while he's relaxing or playing in his crate (Note: not entirely from the house just yet). Make sure to keep the separation time short initially; as he gets more used to it, you can extend that time.
I find it helpful to start associating the crate with a command, such as "kennel". The best way to do this is to give a treat and praise him when he enters the crate upon command. Keep your dog entertained in the meantime with a toy or chew, particularly a puzzle. Bored dogs tend to get destructive.
Once your dog will stay quietly (aka not whining) in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can transition into the next step. This might take several days or weeks.
STEP 4: CRATE YOUR DOG WHEN YOU LEAVE OR AT NIGHT
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Your departures should be short and undramatic— Praise your dog for entering the crate, give him a treat, and then leave quietly. When you get back home, don't respond to your dog in an enthusiastic way to avoid increasing anxiety for your return. Just walk over calmly, open the door and take him/her out to go potty.
At night, put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it would be a good idea to put the crate near your bedroom. Often puppies need to go outside in the middle of the night, and you'll want to close enough to hear your puppy when he whines. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can gradually move it to a more preferable location. Remember, any time spent with your dog is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
POSSIBLE ISSUES TO NOTE:
The crate is not a remedy for separation anxiety. The Humane Society of the United States notes "A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help."
(At this point, your pup has not had any negative crate experiences while at our home- so hopefully the first steps should be easy.)
First things first, make sure you place the crate in the center of the house, right next to you, or where the family spends a lot of time. (It is ok to move the crate from room to room with you too.) That way your puppy won't feel like he is being isolated or banished. I find that it's helpful to put toys or a soft blanket, and a yummy chew treat - these should be things they only get inside the crate.
This is when patience comes in. Don't force your puppy into the crate. Some puppies will naturally be curious and explore the crate right away. If this is not the case for you, I would recommend placing a toy or treat near the crate, depending on whichever your puppy prefers over the other. Gradually place treats closer to the crate, right at the entrance, and finally inside the crate. Your puppy may be fine and walk right into the crate and need no coaxing.
At no point during this step should you force the puppy inside the crate or close the crate door. This step may take a few minutes or possibly as long as several days. Be patient with your puppy as he or she learns! They can feel your frustration and interpret the feeling as the crate being an unsafe place for them...
STEP 2: FEED YOUR DOG IN THE CRATE
After your dog is familiar with his crate, place his/her food bowl near the crate. That way, your dog will begin to associate the crate with pleasant experiences. Depending on how fast your dog readily enters the crate at this point, you can start putting the bowl in the crate itself or scatter some food inside. Because animals don't want to go potty where they eat or sleep, this step also teaches them to hold it. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the food bowl as close as the dog is willing to go, gradually decreasing the distance with each meal.
Once your dog is comfortable with the crate, you can close the door while your dog is eating so he/she gets used to it. However, especially the first time, make sure that you open the door again as soon as he's finished. Gradually increase the length of time after the meal is finished before you open the door again, up to 10 minutes. If done right, your dog shouldn't whine because he/she is used to the crate by now.
However, if your puppy starts to whine to be let out, it's probably because you've increase the time too much. It is better to let him out when he's still comfortable. Don't wait until he realizes he wants to be let out and makes a fuss. Remember, it's important to associate the crate with happy feelings. If your puppy does whine, don't let him out until he stops or you risk unwillingly teaching him to whine to get what he wants. (give him a treat through the crate door or another opening until he/she is quiet an can then be let out without whining to do so.
STEP 3: LENGTHEN THE CRATING PERIODS
Because the long-term goal of crating training is for your dog to find peace and security in the crate, you'll need to get your dog used to the crate while you're gone. At this point, your dog has experienced the crate positively with family close by. Now you need to begin withdrawing from the room or out of sight while he's relaxing or playing in his crate (Note: not entirely from the house just yet). Make sure to keep the separation time short initially; as he gets more used to it, you can extend that time.
I find it helpful to start associating the crate with a command, such as "kennel". The best way to do this is to give a treat and praise him when he enters the crate upon command. Keep your dog entertained in the meantime with a toy or chew, particularly a puzzle. Bored dogs tend to get destructive.
Once your dog will stay quietly (aka not whining) in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can transition into the next step. This might take several days or weeks.
STEP 4: CRATE YOUR DOG WHEN YOU LEAVE OR AT NIGHT
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Your departures should be short and undramatic— Praise your dog for entering the crate, give him a treat, and then leave quietly. When you get back home, don't respond to your dog in an enthusiastic way to avoid increasing anxiety for your return. Just walk over calmly, open the door and take him/her out to go potty.
At night, put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it would be a good idea to put the crate near your bedroom. Often puppies need to go outside in the middle of the night, and you'll want to close enough to hear your puppy when he whines. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can gradually move it to a more preferable location. Remember, any time spent with your dog is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
POSSIBLE ISSUES TO NOTE:
- Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it, begin soiling in it, or become destructive.
- Don't leave your dog in the crate too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn't get enough exercise, mental stimulation, or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. In addition, puppies under six months of age shouldn't be in a crate for more than 3 or 4 hours at a time, because they can't hold it for that long.
- Make sure you don't reward bad behavior. For instance, if your dog whines or cries, it may be due to wanting to be out of the crate, or because he needs to go outside to eliminate. You should never reward whining; Instead, you should wait until he stops. Don't pound on the crate or yell at your dog to make them stop. Ask the command you use for going outside and if he gets excited, let him out only for that purpose.
The crate is not a remedy for separation anxiety. The Humane Society of the United States notes "A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help."
USING A CRATE TO HOUSE TRAIN
This is not a long-term solution. However, it would be impossible to watch the puppy at all times. Crates can be effective to train your puppy to hold it until taken outside. You'll also learn cues that your puppy needs to go.
SOME GUIDELINES TO REMEMBER:
WHAT TO DO WHEN THE PUPPY HAS AN ACCIDENT
First of all, accidents are bound to happen when your puppy is still learning how to hold it. Do not punish your puppy or cause any negative associations with its bodily functions.
** We also recommend rolling up a newspaper or magazine into a tight roll and then with a swift motion whack yourself over the head... you haven't paid enough attention to the cues your puppy has given you... ;)
If you put in a little additional work at the beginning and remain consistent and positive through the whole process, your puppy should learn in little time. Once you develop a schedule, it will be so much easier. Remember, this is a very natural process. Enjoy this time with your new best friend! Shih Tzu can be stubborn to house train and will most likely have a difficult teenage phase around 6 months old where they want to test you on all of the established boundaries. If you remain consistent in rewarding good behavior then you'll both come through the other side happy with the bond you've created and a puppy that will be house trained. ;)
This is not a long-term solution. However, it would be impossible to watch the puppy at all times. Crates can be effective to train your puppy to hold it until taken outside. You'll also learn cues that your puppy needs to go.
SOME GUIDELINES TO REMEMBER:
- Make sure the crate is big enough for the puppy, but not too big. There should be enough room for the dog to lay comfortably, stand up, and turn around. If there is too much room, your puppy will sleep in one corner and eliminate in another.
- Don't leave your puppy in a crate for long periods of time, especially the first couple months. If your puppy cannot hold it, they will learn that it's ok to go in the crate.
- It is also ok to carry the crate with you from room to room, the puppy doesn't need to be separated from you just because it is in the crate. (but make sure they do spend some time alone with a great treat in the crate so they can learn to spend time alone too.)
WHAT TO DO WHEN THE PUPPY HAS AN ACCIDENT
First of all, accidents are bound to happen when your puppy is still learning how to hold it. Do not punish your puppy or cause any negative associations with its bodily functions.
- If you find a spot but didn't see it happen, don't get angry. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding them, or any other punishment will only make them afraid of you. Puppies cannot connect your anger with their accident. This type of behavior on your part, just makes the dog think that you're unpredictable.
- If you do catch them in the act, clap loudly to grab attention and quickly remove the puppy to the correct location.
** We also recommend rolling up a newspaper or magazine into a tight roll and then with a swift motion whack yourself over the head... you haven't paid enough attention to the cues your puppy has given you... ;)
If you put in a little additional work at the beginning and remain consistent and positive through the whole process, your puppy should learn in little time. Once you develop a schedule, it will be so much easier. Remember, this is a very natural process. Enjoy this time with your new best friend! Shih Tzu can be stubborn to house train and will most likely have a difficult teenage phase around 6 months old where they want to test you on all of the established boundaries. If you remain consistent in rewarding good behavior then you'll both come through the other side happy with the bond you've created and a puppy that will be house trained. ;)
Advanced Crate Training...
When your dog is learning to extend crate training time and learning to enter on command you can add games to make it fun.
Training sessions should not last more than 5 minutes at a time. Give the puppy/dog a rest and then do it again.
Training sessions should not last more than 5 minutes at a time. Give the puppy/dog a rest and then do it again.
- Start by using the command 'kennel', 'crate', or 'place' (whatever word you choose.)
- As your dog enters the crate you use the command word. You can use a clicker or praise word to let your dog know that this is the desired behavior and treat with praise or an edible treat as soon as they enter the crate. **When giving a treat it should be eaten in the crate - so give the treat through the bars or side openings so the treat is associated with being in the crate.
- Be sure to use a release word like 'ok' or 'good' to let your dog know that the time for being in the crate is over. Be sure to use a word that you only use for that purpose. If you always say 'good dog' you shouldn't use 'good' as your release word. We use 'ok' as our release word and it can be generalized for all of your training release.
- The crate is a great place to give treats often. Don't just put your dog in the crate at night, when you leave, or at the groomer. Practice often by giving a 'high value' treat in the crate. (A 'high value' treat is something your dog goes nuts over, a raw meaty bone, a bully stick, a filled kong, a frozen slice of watermelon - whatever they love the most). If your dog knows that treats happen in the crate, they will associate crate time with good emotions.
- Get creative. Your dog will love to go into their crate the more you work on that skill. It will be a fun experience. Try new things - have your dog learn scoot back, stay with the door open, etc.
Potty Training...
Shurbeez Potty Training Methods
At Shurbeez Shih Tzu we have tried just about every kind of potty-training method over the years. We have found the most success using litter box training for our puppies and have found that it makes the potty-training process much easier on pups and their new families.
We begin potty-training at three weeks old, or as soon as we notice they are beginning to walk around and relieve themselves without help from mom. We begin by placing puppies into the potty area as soon as they wake up. It is normal for them to want to relieve their bowels as soon as they are awake. Puppy's natural instincts tell them that there should be a place away from where they sleep to relieve themselves. It is not natural for them to want to eat, sleep, play and potty in the same place. We have found that offering them distinct places for each of these things makes the potty-training process much easier for them and their new homes. By the time they are 6 weeks old they are having about 90% success, by 9-10 weeks they are proficient and usually 99 - 100% accurate.
At Shurbeez Shih Tzu we have been developing our method of potty training as we have raised our puppies. Starting early gives our puppies the best head start possible. We have several phases of potty training that depend on how proficient they are and how much space they have been given in their 'puppy safe area'. Each litter develops in the same way, but the timing can be different. We carefully watch each litter to know when they are successful enough to be moved to the next phase. No litter of puppies is EXACTLY the same and we make small adjustments to set up our pups for success.
Step One
The first phase of potty training, starts at approximately three weeks old. We place a shallow amount of pressed pine & alfalfa pellets into a potty tray and place it right next to the sleeping area of the puppies, these are the only two areas they have to negotiate. By four weeks old, all of the puppies are toddling in and out of the litter box to do their business.
Instinctually, dogs do not want to soil their 'den'. Accidents happen, but we strive to clean them up quickly and effectively so they learn, by scent and location, that the area they can use for a toilet is limited to that one area. This commonly means that we are changing bedding up to 12 times a day. (Yes, it's worth the effort!) The only area that is not their den is their litter box. The puppies naturally begin using the litter box for their bathroom duties. Some puppies are stubborn and don't choose the right spot, but after a few weeks usually everyone has it down pretty well. Our Mommas have been potty trained to go exclusively outside and never soil in the area their puppies are being raised.
Step Two
In the second phase of litter box training we give the puppies a bit more space. We use an exercise pen with a crate/den/bed, toys, and potty box. This area grows as they become better and better at being successful at their potty training. The area starts approximately 2x4 and grows as they get bigger and become more proficient at using the potty area. A 4x4 or 2x6 area is perfect for a single puppy at 12+ weeks. This size works very well and many of our families replicate this set up in their own home for a smooth transition. As puppy gets older and can safely navigate a bigger space alone, then you can add more room to their puppy safe area - and open up more spaces in your home for puppy to navigate while being watched. All of the supplies needed to set up this 'puppy safe area' are listed in detail on the Puppy Supplies page.
Step Three
As puppies get older and better able to make it to the potty box their space gets bigger. If there are occasional messes we clean them up as quickly as we can using Nature's Miracle products to enzymatically destroy the smell so it doesn't become a habit in that one spot.
Does my puppy come potty trained?
I wish I could answer YES! The truth is no, your puppy comes litter box/tray trained. You will be an important part of the success of finishing the potty training of your puppy. I will not fill your minds with promises, instead, we will discuss realistic expectations.
What you get from me is a good foundation that you will build on. In your 'puppy safe area', if you have done things correctly, your puppy will use the litter box. I can not stress enough the importance of getting the right equipment to begin with. This is true whether you want to train your puppy to continue with the use of the litter box or to go potty outside only.
Your puppy will NOT be ready for unsupervised freedom in the house. He/She will only be 10-12 weeks old and will not be like an adult cat that you can show where the litter box is and then they will go find it every time they have to go. You will need to supervise your puppy and when you see signs they have to go potty take him/her to use their litter box, turf, or outside.
Some signs a puppy has to go potty include: turning circles, seeming frantic to find something, and sniffing - sometimes there's just no warning. If you are holding a puppy and they have to go potty, they might get squirmy.
It is good to choose a command word to use when you are prompting your puppy to go potty. I use "good potty" with an excited, praising voice, often accompanied by a tiny treat. Shih Tzu are stubborn, and/or sometimes your puppy will be so busy they don't want to take the time to go potty. Be consistent, place them back in the potty area and wait for a successful attempt. If they don't go, you can use your crate or "puppy safe area" to put them in and wait 10 minutes and try again.
Praise is always best for any training. If you scold more than a firm no when accidents happen then you are setting your puppy up for a traumatic experience. I have had many new puppy parents ask me why their puppy won't go potty outside but then comes right into the house and runs to a hiding spot and then makes a mess. This can be from being scolded or punished for going potty in front of you. If you freak out when an accident happens your puppy learns that it is not safe to eliminate in front of you, inside or outside. They will hide and try to find somewhere they feel safe to take care of their natural bodily functions. If you find a mess please do not rub your puppy's face into the mess or get angry. They don't have any idea why you are mad and you're setting yourself up as a person who is unpredictable in your puppy's eyes.
You can expect your puppy to have to use the bathroom after a nap, during and after playing, a few minutes after eating or drinking. I would wait until you see your little one use the box in their 'puppy safe area', praise for a good potty, then and then bring them out for their playtime directly after.
**Be aware and pay attention to the habits of your puppy. If he/she goes three or four times before being empty - then wait them out. If you find that your puppy goes potty outside and comes back into the house and does it inside again, then stay outside until you're sure they've completed all their business... ;)
In the beginning every second of supervision counts! If you cannot be watching your puppy every second then you'll find more success if you put a harness and leash on your puppy and keep him/her tethered to you or in their 'puppy safe area'. Successful potty training is all about helping your puppy be successful. So, observe, plan, be consistent, and help your puppy be successful.
Night Time
At night we suggest using a crate for your puppy to sleep in, or your 'puppy safe area' with an open crate or bed. Your puppy is used to a crate so there will be no trauma to spend time in a crate. For the first few nights be prepared to wake up early and let them out to relieve themselves in the litter box (if you choose to close them into the crate) or take them outside to potty. After they have relieved themselves it is okay to put them back in the crate/area and get a little more sleep.
**I do not suggest taking food and water away at night until they are at least 5 pounds AND 15-20 weeks old. Puppies smaller than that have a hard time maintaining blood sugar and their health can tank quickly if they don't have access to food and water. In my home they are used to having food and water available at all times.
When I am trying to house train a puppy that is staying here I will keep them in their 'puppy safe area' with food and water until I see that they can 'hold it' all night - consistently not waking up to potty or poop in the potty area. (like a human child waking up with a dry diaper) Then I begin putting them with the older dogs in their own crate all night, most make the transition very well.
The nice thing is that you do have your 'puppy safe area' set up so that you can put your puppy in while they can't be supervised or you are at work and the litter box/tray is available to them. In the beginning, I would have the litter box be the only absorbent surface other than their bed. Often when a family has experienced a problem with the litter box and their new pup it has been traced to a litter box that is too small, or tall etc... The litter box needs to be large enough for your puppy to do the potty dance :) We use an 24x18 crate tray with Rocky Canyon barn & stable Animal bedding pellets (2/3) and alfalfa pellets (1/3). It is the perfect size and what they are used to.
At Shurbeez Shih Tzu we have tried just about every kind of potty-training method over the years. We have found the most success using litter box training for our puppies and have found that it makes the potty-training process much easier on pups and their new families.
We begin potty-training at three weeks old, or as soon as we notice they are beginning to walk around and relieve themselves without help from mom. We begin by placing puppies into the potty area as soon as they wake up. It is normal for them to want to relieve their bowels as soon as they are awake. Puppy's natural instincts tell them that there should be a place away from where they sleep to relieve themselves. It is not natural for them to want to eat, sleep, play and potty in the same place. We have found that offering them distinct places for each of these things makes the potty-training process much easier for them and their new homes. By the time they are 6 weeks old they are having about 90% success, by 9-10 weeks they are proficient and usually 99 - 100% accurate.
At Shurbeez Shih Tzu we have been developing our method of potty training as we have raised our puppies. Starting early gives our puppies the best head start possible. We have several phases of potty training that depend on how proficient they are and how much space they have been given in their 'puppy safe area'. Each litter develops in the same way, but the timing can be different. We carefully watch each litter to know when they are successful enough to be moved to the next phase. No litter of puppies is EXACTLY the same and we make small adjustments to set up our pups for success.
Step One
The first phase of potty training, starts at approximately three weeks old. We place a shallow amount of pressed pine & alfalfa pellets into a potty tray and place it right next to the sleeping area of the puppies, these are the only two areas they have to negotiate. By four weeks old, all of the puppies are toddling in and out of the litter box to do their business.
Instinctually, dogs do not want to soil their 'den'. Accidents happen, but we strive to clean them up quickly and effectively so they learn, by scent and location, that the area they can use for a toilet is limited to that one area. This commonly means that we are changing bedding up to 12 times a day. (Yes, it's worth the effort!) The only area that is not their den is their litter box. The puppies naturally begin using the litter box for their bathroom duties. Some puppies are stubborn and don't choose the right spot, but after a few weeks usually everyone has it down pretty well. Our Mommas have been potty trained to go exclusively outside and never soil in the area their puppies are being raised.
Step Two
In the second phase of litter box training we give the puppies a bit more space. We use an exercise pen with a crate/den/bed, toys, and potty box. This area grows as they become better and better at being successful at their potty training. The area starts approximately 2x4 and grows as they get bigger and become more proficient at using the potty area. A 4x4 or 2x6 area is perfect for a single puppy at 12+ weeks. This size works very well and many of our families replicate this set up in their own home for a smooth transition. As puppy gets older and can safely navigate a bigger space alone, then you can add more room to their puppy safe area - and open up more spaces in your home for puppy to navigate while being watched. All of the supplies needed to set up this 'puppy safe area' are listed in detail on the Puppy Supplies page.
Step Three
As puppies get older and better able to make it to the potty box their space gets bigger. If there are occasional messes we clean them up as quickly as we can using Nature's Miracle products to enzymatically destroy the smell so it doesn't become a habit in that one spot.
Does my puppy come potty trained?
I wish I could answer YES! The truth is no, your puppy comes litter box/tray trained. You will be an important part of the success of finishing the potty training of your puppy. I will not fill your minds with promises, instead, we will discuss realistic expectations.
What you get from me is a good foundation that you will build on. In your 'puppy safe area', if you have done things correctly, your puppy will use the litter box. I can not stress enough the importance of getting the right equipment to begin with. This is true whether you want to train your puppy to continue with the use of the litter box or to go potty outside only.
Your puppy will NOT be ready for unsupervised freedom in the house. He/She will only be 10-12 weeks old and will not be like an adult cat that you can show where the litter box is and then they will go find it every time they have to go. You will need to supervise your puppy and when you see signs they have to go potty take him/her to use their litter box, turf, or outside.
Some signs a puppy has to go potty include: turning circles, seeming frantic to find something, and sniffing - sometimes there's just no warning. If you are holding a puppy and they have to go potty, they might get squirmy.
It is good to choose a command word to use when you are prompting your puppy to go potty. I use "good potty" with an excited, praising voice, often accompanied by a tiny treat. Shih Tzu are stubborn, and/or sometimes your puppy will be so busy they don't want to take the time to go potty. Be consistent, place them back in the potty area and wait for a successful attempt. If they don't go, you can use your crate or "puppy safe area" to put them in and wait 10 minutes and try again.
Praise is always best for any training. If you scold more than a firm no when accidents happen then you are setting your puppy up for a traumatic experience. I have had many new puppy parents ask me why their puppy won't go potty outside but then comes right into the house and runs to a hiding spot and then makes a mess. This can be from being scolded or punished for going potty in front of you. If you freak out when an accident happens your puppy learns that it is not safe to eliminate in front of you, inside or outside. They will hide and try to find somewhere they feel safe to take care of their natural bodily functions. If you find a mess please do not rub your puppy's face into the mess or get angry. They don't have any idea why you are mad and you're setting yourself up as a person who is unpredictable in your puppy's eyes.
You can expect your puppy to have to use the bathroom after a nap, during and after playing, a few minutes after eating or drinking. I would wait until you see your little one use the box in their 'puppy safe area', praise for a good potty, then and then bring them out for their playtime directly after.
**Be aware and pay attention to the habits of your puppy. If he/she goes three or four times before being empty - then wait them out. If you find that your puppy goes potty outside and comes back into the house and does it inside again, then stay outside until you're sure they've completed all their business... ;)
In the beginning every second of supervision counts! If you cannot be watching your puppy every second then you'll find more success if you put a harness and leash on your puppy and keep him/her tethered to you or in their 'puppy safe area'. Successful potty training is all about helping your puppy be successful. So, observe, plan, be consistent, and help your puppy be successful.
Night Time
At night we suggest using a crate for your puppy to sleep in, or your 'puppy safe area' with an open crate or bed. Your puppy is used to a crate so there will be no trauma to spend time in a crate. For the first few nights be prepared to wake up early and let them out to relieve themselves in the litter box (if you choose to close them into the crate) or take them outside to potty. After they have relieved themselves it is okay to put them back in the crate/area and get a little more sleep.
**I do not suggest taking food and water away at night until they are at least 5 pounds AND 15-20 weeks old. Puppies smaller than that have a hard time maintaining blood sugar and their health can tank quickly if they don't have access to food and water. In my home they are used to having food and water available at all times.
When I am trying to house train a puppy that is staying here I will keep them in their 'puppy safe area' with food and water until I see that they can 'hold it' all night - consistently not waking up to potty or poop in the potty area. (like a human child waking up with a dry diaper) Then I begin putting them with the older dogs in their own crate all night, most make the transition very well.
The nice thing is that you do have your 'puppy safe area' set up so that you can put your puppy in while they can't be supervised or you are at work and the litter box/tray is available to them. In the beginning, I would have the litter box be the only absorbent surface other than their bed. Often when a family has experienced a problem with the litter box and their new pup it has been traced to a litter box that is too small, or tall etc... The litter box needs to be large enough for your puppy to do the potty dance :) We use an 24x18 crate tray with Rocky Canyon barn & stable Animal bedding pellets (2/3) and alfalfa pellets (1/3). It is the perfect size and what they are used to.
If you'd like to continue using the same system we use in our home, here are the products your puppy will be familiar with. The pine/alfalfa pellets will smell like their potty place and help your puppy know where you want them to go potty. You can place them outside, or use the litter box/tray combo in their puppy-safe area for overnight or when puppy is alone at home but not fully potty trained. (Any compressed, pine or alfalfa pellets will work, just make sure you get a brand that has no added chemicals.
**if they have an accident just wipe it up with a paper towel and place the paper towel under the grate (I like to add it toward the back) so they can smell their own potty there.
These are the layers of the potty area from bottom to top:
**if they have an accident just wipe it up with a paper towel and place the paper towel under the grate (I like to add it toward the back) so they can smell their own potty there.
These are the layers of the potty area from bottom to top:
- Crate tray
- 1/2 potty pad- I make sure they cannot reach the pad or they will pull it out and make a huge mess
- pellets - thin, 1 pellet deep layer (they will turn to sawdust as they get wet)
- Crate tray with 1" PVC pipes zip tied to it
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These are the alfalfa and pine pellets we use for our litter trays. You can use any pellets designed for animal use or burning. Just make sure there aren't made with any chemicals.
Frequently asked potty training questions...
What if I don't want to continue using pellets or turf inside?
GREAT! You can start from the first day home to take your puppy outside. If you'd like we can send home a scoop of the pellets for you to place in your yard so the puppy can smell the 'potty place' scent in a specific place in your yard. Just let us know if you'd like a scoop. Otherwise you can start taking your puppy outside every time they need to go. Your puppy isn't coming home fully immunized. Make sure if you plan to potty train outside that your yard is protected from outside animals. If you frequently see wildlife in your yard, or your fence can't keep out neighborhood animals you may need to make other plans or potty training until your puppy is fully vaccinated.
GREAT! You can start from the first day home to take your puppy outside. If you'd like we can send home a scoop of the pellets for you to place in your yard so the puppy can smell the 'potty place' scent in a specific place in your yard. Just let us know if you'd like a scoop. Otherwise you can start taking your puppy outside every time they need to go. Your puppy isn't coming home fully immunized. Make sure if you plan to potty train outside that your yard is protected from outside animals. If you frequently see wildlife in your yard, or your fence can't keep out neighborhood animals you may need to make other plans or potty training until your puppy is fully vaccinated.
Should I worry about my puppy eating the pine or alfalfa pellets?
Our puppies rarely ever put the pellets into their mouths. They learn to use the litter box before they are eating solid food so they don't see it as a food source. Occasionally, as puppies get older, they may chew on a pellet, but they find them unappetizing most of the time. Sometimes the mouth them when they are teething, but rarely do we have to worry about a puppy actually ingesting them. They do break down into sawdust when wet, so they won't choke on them but they could easily digest the particle if eaten accidentally. If you do find a lot of pellet residue in your puppy's poop you should consider putting a barrier between the puppy and the pellets like placing the pellets into a giant mesh bag, or figure out how puppies are gaining access to pellets and block the access.
Our puppies rarely ever put the pellets into their mouths. They learn to use the litter box before they are eating solid food so they don't see it as a food source. Occasionally, as puppies get older, they may chew on a pellet, but they find them unappetizing most of the time. Sometimes the mouth them when they are teething, but rarely do we have to worry about a puppy actually ingesting them. They do break down into sawdust when wet, so they won't choke on them but they could easily digest the particle if eaten accidentally. If you do find a lot of pellet residue in your puppy's poop you should consider putting a barrier between the puppy and the pellets like placing the pellets into a giant mesh bag, or figure out how puppies are gaining access to pellets and block the access.
Will my puppy have a hard time transitioning to going potty outside?
That is a fair question, and one many new puppy owners worry about. A puppy is always as successful at potty-training as his owners are at paying attention to cues and being consistent.
Your puppy has learned for its first 12 weeks that there is a specific place to go potty. Your job is to teach where that is. Most puppies raised with our dual litter-box/turf system have no trouble learning to go outside. The pellets we use smell like the grass outside and we have also taken them outside often. They haven't experienced the traditional potty pads that equate so often to using our rugs to go potty on...
That is a fair question, and one many new puppy owners worry about. A puppy is always as successful at potty-training as his owners are at paying attention to cues and being consistent.
Your puppy has learned for its first 12 weeks that there is a specific place to go potty. Your job is to teach where that is. Most puppies raised with our dual litter-box/turf system have no trouble learning to go outside. The pellets we use smell like the grass outside and we have also taken them outside often. They haven't experienced the traditional potty pads that equate so often to using our rugs to go potty on...
- Some new owners find it easiest to get some pellets and sprinkle them in the grass in the yard.
- Others have a whole litter box set-up for outside.
- Still others wish to continue to teach in the home that there is a litter box/turf set-up at all times for bad weather or apartment living or for the work day needs.
What should I do if my puppy keeps having accidents inside?
Good question. First, do they always return to the same spot to go? If so, it could still smell like a past accident. When cleaning up accidents we need to make sure that all the evidence is gone. Nature's Miracle, Rocco & Roxie Odor Eliminator, and Angry Orange are terrific products we've used that enzymatically get the smell out. Vinegar when dried smells a lot like an old potty accident, bleach will sanitize, but will leave residuals and still smell like the accident.
It takes time and consistency to get it right. There will be accidents. Clean them up quickly and thoroughly. Stay positive and praise for successes!
Don't yell, spank, or rub your puppy's nose in it. Many puppies learn that it is unsafe to have their bodily functions in front of you if you yell when they have accidents. That is one of the reasons a pet may go potty while hiding, or come inside and go potty instead of in front of you outside. A firm NO (or the sound you've chosen to mean NO) is sufficient for letting your pup know the boundaries, but praise goes a lot farther with training Shih Tzu.
Keep going. Your pup will learn with time, consistency, and praise!
If your pup isn't fully trustworthy, and most aren't for up to a year, you can help them be successful by:
Good question. First, do they always return to the same spot to go? If so, it could still smell like a past accident. When cleaning up accidents we need to make sure that all the evidence is gone. Nature's Miracle, Rocco & Roxie Odor Eliminator, and Angry Orange are terrific products we've used that enzymatically get the smell out. Vinegar when dried smells a lot like an old potty accident, bleach will sanitize, but will leave residuals and still smell like the accident.
It takes time and consistency to get it right. There will be accidents. Clean them up quickly and thoroughly. Stay positive and praise for successes!
Don't yell, spank, or rub your puppy's nose in it. Many puppies learn that it is unsafe to have their bodily functions in front of you if you yell when they have accidents. That is one of the reasons a pet may go potty while hiding, or come inside and go potty instead of in front of you outside. A firm NO (or the sound you've chosen to mean NO) is sufficient for letting your pup know the boundaries, but praise goes a lot farther with training Shih Tzu.
Keep going. Your pup will learn with time, consistency, and praise!
If your pup isn't fully trustworthy, and most aren't for up to a year, you can help them be successful by:
- Supervising more - having the pup on a leash next to you instead of allowing your pet to wander.
- Not granting your puppy full access to the whole house or apartment.
- Not confusing your pup with mixed messages - harsh treatment followed by apologies and kisses doesn't produce sound results. Firm NO for undesirable actions, and excessive happy-voiced praise for desirable actions is enough.
- Not punishing or get mad if you find an accident after it has happened. Your puppy has no idea why you're upset, and dragging a pup to the accident and then yelling or scolding is just confusing to them.
- Using a puppy-safe area that has a litter-box or turf area, or crate training when not directly being supervised - that means eyes on them at all times ;)
- Setting a timer for as long as you think they can hold it and increase or decrease the time when needed.
- Increasing treat value and praise for successes outside.
Separation anxiety...
We have found the SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy to be an invaluable tool to help puppies who don't like being alone feel comforted. It has a battery powered heartbeat pack that hides inside a velcro pocket. You can turn it on for a few hours or choose the continuous beating option.
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If you don't want to buy the stuffed animal to place the heartbeat pack into, you can just buy the replacement heart and use that in another animal or under a blanket in your puppy's crate.
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This is the new puppy's best friend. This calming collar is activated by body heat to emit an odorless pheromone that mimics a mother's nursing pheromone, and provides a strong signal of comfort and security to puppies. Each collar lasts 1 month.
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coping with separation anxiety
by Dr. Becker
Separation anxiety is a common behavioral problem, especially in shelter dogs that may have been previously abused or neglected, that can take a serious toll on both pets and their owners.
Sometimes, separation anxiety in pets is painfully obvious. Your dog may, for instance, show signs of distress when you get ready to leave the house.
When you leave, your dog may howl relentlessly, chew up furniture, urinate and defecate on the floor or even try to escape. In other cases, signs of separation anxiety can be subtler, such as drooling or pacing (or trotting along a specific path in your yard).
You can typically determine that your pet’s anxious symptoms are due to separation anxiety if they occur only in your absence. A dog that’s normally reliably housetrained who has accidents only when you leave is one such example.
Destructive behaviors, including excessive chewing and digging, that occur only when you’re gone are another sign. If your dog struggles with separation anxiety, you may be tempted to “baby” your dog or bring him with you everywhere you go.
The other extreme is simply ignoring the anxiety and hoping your dog will grow out of it. But both of these strategies may ultimately make the problem, and your dog’s symptoms, worse.
Why Do Some Dogs Develop Separation Anxiety?
It’s not known why some dogs develop separation anxiety and others do not, but it is far more common in dogs adopted from animal shelters. It’s likely the anxiety may be triggered by being abandoned or by the loss of an important person in the dog’s life.
If you rescue a shelter pet, I strongly recommend you implement A Sound Beginning’s “welcome home” techniques and music immediately, once your dog is home, to help reduce the potential of separation anxiety from occurring. Separation anxiety may also be triggered by:
Behavior Modification Is Important for Dogs With Separation Anxiety
First and foremost, if you’re not sure your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, contact your veterinarian for a definite diagnosis.
Video of your dog’s behaviors can be very helpful here, but laboratory testing may also be done to help rule out underlying medical or behavioral issues. Such examples that might be confused with separation anxiety symptoms include:
Once you’re sure separation anxiety is the problem, begin behavior modification right away, preferably with the help of a professional. Separation anxiety can be very challenging to overcome and will likely take time, determination and effort on your part to help your pet.
The plan that follows is a general guide you can follow,3 but for serious cases please seek professional guidance. Your goal is to help your pet reduce his dependence on you so he feels safe and less anxious when you’re not home.
These recommendations may sound cold and heartless, but remember in many cases we unknowingly feed our dog’s anxiety with how we act, so:
A specialist in canine behavior can help you here as well, but to explain briefly, try first just walking to the door, then opening the door, then leaving for a few seconds and increasing the length of time very slowly, working your way up to two hours. The entire process may take eight weeks to complete. It’s a tedious process but one that is often very effective.
When You Need to Help Your Anxious Pet NOW
The sooner you implement behavior modification strategies like those listed above, the sooner your pet may start to recover from separation anxiety. That being said, it’s a process and one that takes time.
Your dog probably won’t overcome separation anxiety overnight, so it’s a good idea to have some natural strategies on hand to help minimize anxious symptoms in your dog when you need to leave the house. A coveted treat-release toy is a great option, as mentioned. There are chewing-type toys available that come with specialized tools for filling the toy with moist food. As your pet chews, the food is gradually released.
You can even fill one up and put it in the freezer, which is especially useful for keeping your pet occupied for a longer period. Engaging your dog in an active play session before you leave can also help to calm his nerves and get out some of his energy. I also recommend:
The essential oil of lavender has also been proven to reduce a pet's stress response as well. I recommend placing a few drops on your dog's collar or bedding before a stressor occurs, if possible, or diffuse the oil around your house for an overall calming effect.
It’s important to understand that if your dog is destructive or has accidents due to separation anxiety while you’re away, this is an anxiety response and not one your dog can easily control. Be sure you do not yell or in any way punish your dog for these behaviors, as this will only increase his anxiety.
Finally, even with the best efforts, some dogs with separation anxiety become too destructive to be left alone. Other dogs may hurt themselves trying to escape. If your dog cannot be safely left home alone, you’ll need to make other arrangements until his separation anxiety is under control.
You can bring your dog with you, if possible, or arrange for someone (a friend, family member or pet sitter) to stay with your dog. Some dogs with separation anxiety do well in doggy day care, so determine the best fit for your dog and lifestyle. Hopefully, this will be a temporary arrangement and, after you work through behavior modifications, your dog will be able to stay home alone without undue stress and anxiety.
Separation anxiety is a common behavioral problem, especially in shelter dogs that may have been previously abused or neglected, that can take a serious toll on both pets and their owners.
Sometimes, separation anxiety in pets is painfully obvious. Your dog may, for instance, show signs of distress when you get ready to leave the house.
When you leave, your dog may howl relentlessly, chew up furniture, urinate and defecate on the floor or even try to escape. In other cases, signs of separation anxiety can be subtler, such as drooling or pacing (or trotting along a specific path in your yard).
You can typically determine that your pet’s anxious symptoms are due to separation anxiety if they occur only in your absence. A dog that’s normally reliably housetrained who has accidents only when you leave is one such example.
Destructive behaviors, including excessive chewing and digging, that occur only when you’re gone are another sign. If your dog struggles with separation anxiety, you may be tempted to “baby” your dog or bring him with you everywhere you go.
The other extreme is simply ignoring the anxiety and hoping your dog will grow out of it. But both of these strategies may ultimately make the problem, and your dog’s symptoms, worse.
Why Do Some Dogs Develop Separation Anxiety?
It’s not known why some dogs develop separation anxiety and others do not, but it is far more common in dogs adopted from animal shelters. It’s likely the anxiety may be triggered by being abandoned or by the loss of an important person in the dog’s life.
If you rescue a shelter pet, I strongly recommend you implement A Sound Beginning’s “welcome home” techniques and music immediately, once your dog is home, to help reduce the potential of separation anxiety from occurring. Separation anxiety may also be triggered by:
- A dramatic, abrupt change in schedule, such as an owner who was previously home all day taking a job away from home for 6 hours a day
- Moving to a new residence
- Changes in the household, such as a death in the family or a child going away to college
Behavior Modification Is Important for Dogs With Separation Anxiety
First and foremost, if you’re not sure your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, contact your veterinarian for a definite diagnosis.
Video of your dog’s behaviors can be very helpful here, but laboratory testing may also be done to help rule out underlying medical or behavioral issues. Such examples that might be confused with separation anxiety symptoms include:
- Housetraining problems, submissive urination or a urinary tract infection
- Urine marking
- Destructive chewing or digging, especially among young dogs
- Boredom
- Howling and barking triggered by environmental cues
Once you’re sure separation anxiety is the problem, begin behavior modification right away, preferably with the help of a professional. Separation anxiety can be very challenging to overcome and will likely take time, determination and effort on your part to help your pet.
The plan that follows is a general guide you can follow,3 but for serious cases please seek professional guidance. Your goal is to help your pet reduce his dependence on you so he feels safe and less anxious when you’re not home.
These recommendations may sound cold and heartless, but remember in many cases we unknowingly feed our dog’s anxiety with how we act, so:
- Ignore your pet’s attention-seeking attempts. Any interactions with your dog should be initiated by you and not by your dog.
- Avoid interacting with your pet in the 30 minutes prior to your departure. The idea is to get your dog used to you not being home.
The exception is that when you leave, you can give your dog a treat-dispensing toy to help keep him occupied. Make this a treat your dog really loves and only offer it when you are leaving. - When you arrive home, ignore your dog until he is relaxed. This helps to reinforce the relaxed behavior.
- Get your dog used to departure cues by doing them when you’re not really leaving. For instance, grab your car keys and your wallet or purse. Put on your coat and sunglasses and walk out to your car.
Then, walk back inside instead of driving away. Alternatively, switch up your departure routine so your dog does not anticipate the daily cues that prompt anxiety.
Put your purse and keys in the car before breakfast, feed your dog just before leaving (so they are distracted) and don’t acknowledge your departure, just slip out when they’re eating.
Discontinuing the verbal dialog many of us have with our pets just prior to leaving can actually dramatically reduce their meltdown after we leave.
You should focus on the departure cues that generate the most anxiety in your dog. By doing them at random times, it will desensitize your dog to these departure cues so hopefully when you really are going to leave, it won’t be so stressful to your dog at the outset. - Conduct independence training, in which your dog stays relaxed on a bed or mat while you gradually leave the room. A professional trainer can be very helpful here. If your dog still needs additional help, try graduated departures described below.
- Begin graduated departures in which you gradually increase the time you’re away from home and reinforce relaxed behaviors in your dog.
A specialist in canine behavior can help you here as well, but to explain briefly, try first just walking to the door, then opening the door, then leaving for a few seconds and increasing the length of time very slowly, working your way up to two hours. The entire process may take eight weeks to complete. It’s a tedious process but one that is often very effective.
When You Need to Help Your Anxious Pet NOW
The sooner you implement behavior modification strategies like those listed above, the sooner your pet may start to recover from separation anxiety. That being said, it’s a process and one that takes time.
Your dog probably won’t overcome separation anxiety overnight, so it’s a good idea to have some natural strategies on hand to help minimize anxious symptoms in your dog when you need to leave the house. A coveted treat-release toy is a great option, as mentioned. There are chewing-type toys available that come with specialized tools for filling the toy with moist food. As your pet chews, the food is gradually released.
You can even fill one up and put it in the freezer, which is especially useful for keeping your pet occupied for a longer period. Engaging your dog in an active play session before you leave can also help to calm his nerves and get out some of his energy. I also recommend:
- Investing in a pheromone diffuser, such as the D.A.P. diffuser for dogs. Species-specific pheromones are chemical substances that can positively affect an animal's emotional state and behavior.
- Consulting a holistic veterinarian about homeopathic, traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and Bach Flower Remedies that could be helpful in alleviating your pet's anxiety.
Some products I use, always in conjunction with behavior modification, include homeopathic aconitum or Hyland's Calms Forte, Bach Rescue Remedy, Separation Anxiety by Spirit Essences, Anxiety by Green Hope Farms or other similar remedies depending on the animal.
- Calming nutraceuticals and herbs that I've found helpful include holy basil (Tulsi), valerian, L-theanine, rhodiola, ashwagandha, GABA, 5-HTP, and chamomile. Consult your holistic vet about which option is right for your pet.
The essential oil of lavender has also been proven to reduce a pet's stress response as well. I recommend placing a few drops on your dog's collar or bedding before a stressor occurs, if possible, or diffuse the oil around your house for an overall calming effect.
It’s important to understand that if your dog is destructive or has accidents due to separation anxiety while you’re away, this is an anxiety response and not one your dog can easily control. Be sure you do not yell or in any way punish your dog for these behaviors, as this will only increase his anxiety.
Finally, even with the best efforts, some dogs with separation anxiety become too destructive to be left alone. Other dogs may hurt themselves trying to escape. If your dog cannot be safely left home alone, you’ll need to make other arrangements until his separation anxiety is under control.
You can bring your dog with you, if possible, or arrange for someone (a friend, family member or pet sitter) to stay with your dog. Some dogs with separation anxiety do well in doggy day care, so determine the best fit for your dog and lifestyle. Hopefully, this will be a temporary arrangement and, after you work through behavior modifications, your dog will be able to stay home alone without undue stress and anxiety.